At the northern end of Honshu, Japan’s main island, the Shimokita Peninsula curves around Mutsu Bay. Inland stands Mount Osore, or Osorezan, one of the country’s most sacred sites and a place long associated with the Underworld and hell.
The mountain’s stark volcanic landscape helps explain its reputation. Grey and black ground, sulphurous vapours and mineral-rich streams create an austere setting. The Sanzu, a yellowish stream produced by its high mineral content, is traditionally seen as the route to the afterlife. Near its banks stands Bodai, a Buddhist temple that attracts thousands of pilgrims each year.
According to traditional beliefs, the sanctuary is a place where people can communicate with the dead, particularly their ancestors. Families travel to Osorezan seeking a connection with deceased relatives, who continue to hold an important place in Japanese household traditions through altars, photographs, offerings and prayers.
The women who act as intermediaries are known as Itako. They are blind mediums who, after demanding mystical training, are believed to communicate with the dead and offer glimpses of the future. Their presence has made Mount Osore a destination for families looking for contact with relatives who have passed away.
Despite its difficult terrain, visitors can cross parts of the area using installations built over sulphurous streams. Some pilgrims stay for several days at the monastery, which provides basic accommodation and vegetarian meals without alcohol. They walk among the small piles of stones associated with Jizo figures, protective beings covered with white cloths.
The Shimokita Peninsula has an extreme climate. Summer temperatures can be intense, while winter cold leads to the closure of the sanctuary. Pilgrims therefore hurry to visit before the first snowfalls in November.
Mount Osore is around 440 kilometres from Sendai. A combination of trains and buses makes the journey possible in slightly more than five hours, and travellers can reduce railway costs with a Japan Rail Pass purchased before travelling to Japan.
Sources: La Vanguardia.